Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz
Two small, solitary plateaus, a hidden village, and a ruined convent whose arch the Camino itself passes through: a stage steeped in legend.
Best season: Spring and autumn, due to the strong sun exposure in the first half
Map
- Hornillos del Camino
- Castrojeriz
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
Gaps in the source file are preserved; no connections have been added.
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz is 19.9 km along the French Way (Camino Francés). It's stage 14, with 174 m of ascent and 188 m of descent, completed in about 4 h 30 min. Difficulty: Easy.
From San Bol's magical spring to the ruined convent
Long, solitary dirt tracks cross two small plateaus before reaching Hontanas. Sun exposure is high, especially in the first half, so carry enough water and avoid the hottest hours in summer.
Halfway along, the San Bol stream offers a small oasis: a spring at ground level that tradition credits with healing properties for tired feet. Shortly after, Hontanas appears — a village so hidden in a hollow that it only becomes visible once you're practically on top of it.
After Hontanas, the Camino follows the San Antón valley to the ruins of the Convento de San Antón, whose 14th-century Gothic arch literally spans the trail. The stage ends in Castrojeriz, with its hilltop castle and the Colegiata de Nuestra Señora del Manzano.
What the terrain looks like, step by step
Terrain
Dirt tracks across two small plateaus, with a gentle but steady elevation change.
Scenery
Open Meseta up to Hontanas; the San Antón valley adds some variety near the end.
Trail type
Mostly dirt track, with a stretch of local road near Castrojeriz.
Villages
San Bol, Hontanas, and the Convento de San Antón before reaching Castrojeriz.
Water points
The San Bol spring is a key stop halfway along; Hontanas also has full services.
Shade
Very scarce in the first half, especially demanding during the hottest months.
Traffic
Light, apart from the final stretch of local road into Castrojeriz.
Key fact
Hontanas is hidden in such a deep hollow that you won't see it until you're almost on top of it — don't be discouraged if it takes a while to appear.
Staying in Castrojeriz
Castrojeriz, a town with strong Jacobean tradition, has several albergues.
Albergues in Castrojeriz
Several pilgrim albergues in the town centre, at the foot of the castle.
San Bol albergue
A tiny albergue with just 12 beds next to the mystical spring, ideal if you're after a more intimate experience mid-stage.
Eating in Castrojeriz
Castrojeriz's historic centre offers bars and restaurants with pilgrim menus.
Bars and restaurants in the centre
The main street beneath the castle has the best food options of the stage.
Stops with history on this stage
The mystical spring
A spring at ground level, on the site of a former hermitage, credited by generations of pilgrims with healing properties for tired feet.
The hidden village
Tucked into a hollow, it only becomes visible when you're almost on top of it; its church tower is the only earlier hint it's near.
The arch the Camino passes through
14th-century Gothic ruins of a monastery founded in 1146 by order of Alfonso VII, including an arch under which the pilgrim trail literally runs.
The Antonine monks
They dedicated themselves to curing "St Anthony's Fire," a disease caused by a rye fungus, known today as ergotism.
Before entering Castrojeriz, pause a moment under the San Antón arch — it's one of the most photographed sights on the whole Camino Francés.
How to arrive and how to get back
If you're starting here: Hornillos del Camino is a small village; the most practical option is to arrive from Burgos.
If you need to get back from Castrojeriz: there's a bus to Burgos, with good connections across Spain.
Good to know before this stage
Protect yourself from the sun in the first half
Exposure is high up to Hontanas: a hat, sunscreen, and enough water are essential.
Stop at San Bol
Even if you're not staying the night, it's worth pausing to cool off at its spring.
Don't miss the San Antón arch
It's one of the most singular sights of the Camino: the trail literally passes beneath the convent's ruins.
Climb up to Castrojeriz castle if you have time
The views over the valley from the top make the small extra effort worthwhile.
Don't ruin this stage
Setting out without enough water
The first half of the stage has very few supply points before San Bol.
Getting discouraged before you see Hontanas
The village is so hidden that it can feel like it's never coming: that's normal, just keep walking calmly.
Walking past the Convento de San Antón
Its ruins and the story of the Antonine monks are one of the most interesting stops on the stage.
Not protecting your skin from the sun
The lack of shade on the Meseta can take a toll even on cloudy days.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometres is it from Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz?
Is this stage hard?
What is San Bol?
Why is Hontanas hard to see from a distance?
What is the Convento de San Antón?
Which villages does this stage pass through?
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Ideas for after you finish the Camino
A café waiting for you in Santiago
You still have many kilometres ahead, but once you finish the Camino in Santiago, Bonsai Café is a great spot for breakfast: right in the city centre, with Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and weekend brunch.
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