Burgos to Hornillos del Camino
Leaving Burgos gives way to the vast cereal fields of Castilla: the Meseta begins, the most solitary and open stretch of the whole Camino Francés.
Best season: Spring and autumn, to avoid the intense summer heat and severe winter cold
Map
- Burgos
- Hornillos del Camino
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
Gaps in the source file are preserved; no connections have been added.
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Burgos to Hornillos del Camino is 20.3 km along the French Way (Camino Francés). It's stage 13, with 103 m of ascent and 148 m of descent, completed in about 5 h 15 min. Difficulty: Easy.
The Meseta begins
Leaving Burgos is comfortable and relatively quick, in contrast to the difficult entry of the previous stage. Afterwards, long dirt and loose-stone tracks lead into the vast cereal fields of Castilla: this marks the beginning of the Meseta.
The route passes through Villalbilla de Burgos, Tardajos, and Rabé de las Calzadas. After Rabé, the Camino enters the páramo among cereal crops, and after the highest point comes the steep descent of the Matamulos slope down to the valley of the Hormazuelas river, where Hornillos del Camino lies.
Shade is scarce throughout the stage, so sun protection is important in summer. It's a good day to start getting used to the open, solitary landscape that will accompany pilgrims for several days.
What the terrain looks like, step by step
Terrain
Dirt and loose-stone tracks through the cereal fields of the Meseta, with a gentle elevation change.
Scenery
Open cereal fields, with barely any features breaking the horizon.
Trail type
Mostly dirt track, with the steep descent of the Matamulos slope at the end.
Villages
Villalbilla de Burgos, Tardajos, and Rabé de las Calzadas before reaching Hornillos del Camino.
Water points
Available in the early villages; scarce on the final páramo stretch.
Shade
Very scarce throughout the stage, typical of the Meseta.
Traffic
Light, apart from crossing a regional road near Hornillos.
Key fact
The Matamulos slope, just before Hornillos, is steep and can be slippery: descend with care.
Staying in Hornillos del Camino
Hornillos del Camino is a small village with an albergue offering centred on pilgrims.
Albergues in Hornillos
Several pilgrim albergues in the village, with a good atmosphere and communal dinners at several of them.
Eating in Hornillos del Camino
Options are simple but sufficient: the albergues and a bar or two in the village offer pilgrim menus.
Pilgrim menu
Several albergues offer communal dinner, a good way to share the day with other walkers.
Stops with history on this stage
The start of the Castilian páramo
After Rabé de las Calzadas, the landscape characteristic of the Meseta begins: open cereal horizons that will accompany pilgrims for several stages.
Church of San Román
Gothic in style, with a hall-church layout and two central palm-shaped columns holding up the vault; it preserves a Romanesque baptismal font.
A village with a royal charter
Founded in the 9th century and once known as "Forniellos" for its tile-baking furnaces, it received a royal charter from Alfonso VI in 1085, with the right to a market and annual fair.
Hornillos once had three pilgrim hospitals in the Middle Ages: two dedicated to lepers and one, the Hospital del Santo Espíritu, which remained active for centuries.
How to arrive and how to get back
If you're starting here: Burgos has a train and bus station with very good connections to Madrid and the rest of Spain.
If you need to get back from Hornillos del Camino: the village is small; the most practical option is to return to Burgos, which has good connections.
Good to know before this stage
Protect yourself from the sun
Shade is practically nonexistent throughout the stage: bring a hat, sunscreen, and enough water.
Take care on the Matamulos slope
The final descent into Hornillos is steep and can be slippery, especially in the rain.
Prepare mentally for the Meseta
It's the start of a very different landscape: open, solitary, and with barely any shade for several stages.
Take advantage of the communal dinners
Several albergues in Hornillos offer shared dinners, a good way to meet other pilgrims.
Don't ruin this stage
Setting out without sun protection
The lack of shade on the Meseta means the sun can hit hard even in spring and autumn.
Descending the Matamulos slope without caution
It's a rocky, steep stretch; descend slowly, especially with a heavy pack.
Not carrying enough water
Water points thin out on the páramo stretch between Rabé and Hornillos.
Underestimating the change of landscape
The Meseta surprises many pilgrims: it helps to know what to expect before starting this stage.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometres is it from Burgos to Hornillos del Camino?
Is this stage hard?
What is the Meseta?
What is the Matamulos slope?
What can you see in Hornillos del Camino?
Which villages does this stage pass through?
Browse the stages
Ideas for after you finish the Camino
A café waiting for you in Santiago
You still have many kilometres ahead, but once you finish the Camino in Santiago, Bonsai Café is a great spot for breakfast: right in the city centre, with Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and weekend brunch.
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