Lugo to San Romao da Retorta
A simple stage with no major elevation changes, the calmest of the entire Camino Primitivo, ideal for resting your legs after the tough Asturian days.
Best season: Year-round; since it's a mostly flat stage, the weather has little impact on difficulty
Map
- Lugo
- San Romao da Retorta
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Lugo to San Romao da Retorta is 19.7 km along the Camino Primitivo. It's stage 10, with 180 m of ascent and 150 m of descent, completed in about 4 h 30 min. Difficulty: Easy.
A rest after the Roman wall
The stage leaves Lugo and its imposing Roman wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, behind to enter a route that mixes paved stretches with rural paths, with barely any significant elevation change except in the final stretch, where about 100 meters of up and down accumulate.
It's by far one of the simplest stages of the entire Camino Primitivo, a good moment to slow the pace after the demanding mountain days in Asturias. Some pilgrims even consider it the most monotonous of the route, since a good part of the path runs alongside a secondary road.
For those who prefer to better balance the distances, there's the option of extending the stage to Ponte Ferreira (about 8 km more, already in the municipality of Palas de Rei) or to As Seixas (an additional 5 km), both with their own accommodation.
What the terrain is like, section by section
Terrain
Practically flat for most of the route, with about 100 m of elevation change in the final stretch.
Landscape
Inland Galician countryside, with stretches alongside a secondary road of less scenic interest.
Path type
A mix of asphalt and rural paths, with more asphalt than usual for the Camino Primitivo.
Villages
Small rural settlements scattered between Lugo and San Romao da Retorta.
Water points
Good availability leaving a city like Lugo.
Shade
Limited on the stretches alongside the road.
Traffic
Moderate on the stretches running alongside the secondary road.
Key fact
One of the easiest stages of the Camino Primitivo: a good opportunity to rest your legs after the Puerto del Palo and other mountain days.
Staying in San Romao da Retorta
San Romao da Retorta has limited but sufficient accommodation.
San Román da Retorta Pilgrim Hostel (Xunta)
12 beds, no booking.
Albergue O Cándido
20 beds + 12 in 5 private rooms with private bathroom. Bar-restaurant serving meals. Not on Booking, book by phone or through their own website (ocandido.com).
Eating in San Romao da Retorta
By far the best option is the bar-restaurant at the Albergue O Cándido itself.
Bar-restaurant O Cándido
Home-cooked meals, the village's culinary reference after a calm stage.
Historic stops on this stage
Roman wall of Lugo
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the best-preserved wall of the Roman Empire: worth dedicating time to before setting off on this stage.
Use this calm day to rest your mind as well as your body: after the Puerto del Palo and other mountain stages, it's a good day to walk without hurry.
How to get there and back
If you're starting here: Lugo has a bus station with very good connections across Galicia and the rest of Spain.
If you need to return from San Romao da Retorta: the most practical option is to head to Melide, the next major town on the route, with more transport options.
What you should know before this stage
Spend time at Lugo's wall before setting off
It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the great historical highlights of the entire route.
Use it to slow the pace
After the Asturian mountain stages, this flat day is a good recovery opportunity.
Consider extending the stage
If you'd prefer to better balance the distance, you can continue to Ponte Ferreira or As Seixas.
Don't ruin this stage
Leaving Lugo without seeing the Roman wall
It's one of the great heritage gems of the entire Camino Primitivo: don't miss it.
Getting frustrated by the road-side route
Although it's one of the less scenic stages, it serves an important function of physical recovery.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometers are there from Lugo to San Romao da Retorta?
Is this stage difficult?
Can this stage be extended?
What should you see before leaving Lugo?
Why is it considered a monotonous stage?
Browse the stages
Things to do in Santiago de Compostela
Walking tour of the old town
Small-group walking tour of Santiago’s old town with a local guide.
Cathedral and Pórtico da Gloria
Guided visit to the Cathedral with access to the museum and the restored Pórtico da Gloria.
Queimada show and tasting
The traditional Galician flambéed drink, explained in a show designed for pilgrims.
Fisterra, Muxía and the Costa da Morte
The three unmissable stops of the "end of the world" in a full-day trip from Santiago.
Our top recommendation
Bonsai Café
You still have stages ahead, but once you reach Santiago you will have earned a good breakfast. Bonsai Café is right in the city centre, with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.
Map
- Bonsai Café
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