Portomarín to Palas de Rei
A stage of steady climbing through inland Galicia, through eucalyptus and pine woods gradually replacing native forest, up to Palas de Rei.
Best season: Year-round; especially pleasant in spring and autumn
Map
- Portomarín
- Palas de Rei
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Portomarín to Palas de Rei is 24.8 km along the French Way (Camino Francés). It's stage 29, with 519 m of ascent and 353 m of descent, completed in about 5h 45min. Difficulty: Easy.
Gaining height toward Palas de Rei
The first half of the stage carries the day's biggest elevation change: the path climbs from Portomarín's 350 meters to over 700 meters, in a steady ascent with no especially harsh stretches.
The scenery mixes rural areas, small villages and wooded stretches where planted eucalyptus and pine gradually encroach on the native oak and chestnut forest. Near Castromaior, the remains of an Iron Age hillfort survive, a testament to the area's earliest settlers.
The stage ends in Palas de Rei, a place name that tradition links to an ancient royal palace, possibly belonging to the Visigothic king Witiza, said to have kept a residence here.
What the terrain is like, section by section
Terrain
Steady climb in the first half; moderate elevation change with no major demands for the rest of the stage.
Scenery
Rural Galicia with mixed forests of eucalyptus, pine and native species like oak and chestnut.
Path type
Mostly dirt track and rural path.
Villages
Gonzar, Castromaior, Ventas de Narón, Ligonde and Lestedo, among other small hamlets.
Water points
Good, thanks to the many villages that dot the route.
Shade
Plentiful in the wooded stretches, especially the eucalyptus groves.
Traffic
Light, with the occasional local road crossing.
Key fact
The steepest climb is concentrated in the first half of the stage: pace yourself from the start.
Staying in Palas de Rei
Palas de Rei offers a good range of lodging, being a common stop on the final 100 km of the Camino Francés. Grouped by tier; Booking ratings verified in August 2026.
Albergue de peregrinos Os Chacotes
Run by the Xunta de Galicia, 112 beds next to the municipal pools, 1 km from the centre. Pilgrim credential required; may not accept reservations, as public albergues typically operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Tel. 607 481 536.
Albergue Buen Camino
Central, right behind the town hall, with a bar-café serving local food. Tel. 982 380 233.
Albergue Valín Lama
87 beds, with its own bakery, pizzeria and café. Rated 8.2/10 on Booking.
Albergue San Marcos
Rooms with private bathroom, next to the Romanesque church of San Tirso. Rated 8.6/10 on Booking, with over 2,400 reviews.
Casa Camiño Turismo Rural
An 800-year-old stone complex with its own restaurant. Rated 9.9/10 on Booking, with 132 reviews.
Eating along the route
The many villages along the way offer simple pilgrim bars; Palas de Rei has a wider selection.
Traditional Galician cuisine
Several restaurants and bars with pilgrim-friendly menus in the town center.
Stops with history on this stage
An Iron Age hillfort
Archaeological remains of an ancient fortified settlement, a testament to the area's earliest Celtic inhabitants.
A place with historical memory
This small hamlet was the scene of clashes during the Peninsular War, part of the Galician resistance against Napoleon's troops.
The origin of the "King's Palace"
Tradition holds that the village's name recalls an ancient royal palace, possibly linked to the Visigothic king Witiza.
If archaeology interests you, don't miss the remains of the Castromaior hillfort: a quick stop with a lot of history behind it.
Getting there and back
If you're starting here: Portomarín has bus connections with Lugo and Sarria.
If you need to get back from Palas de Rei: it has bus connections with Lugo and Santiago de Compostela.
What to know before this stage
Pace yourself on the initial climb
The day's biggest elevation change is concentrated in the first half: keep a steady pace rather than pushing hard.
Stop at Castromaior
A short detour lets you see the remains of this Celtic hillfort, little known but interesting.
Book accommodation ahead
Palas de Rei is a very popular stop, especially in high season.
Enjoy the eucalyptus forests
Though planted, they offer very pleasant shaded stretches for walking.
Don't ruin this stage
Forcing the pace on the initial climb
The first kilometers hold most of the elevation gain: it's better to manage your energy from the start.
Not learning about Castromaior
It's a little-known hillfort but has interesting archaeological value.
Arriving in Palas de Rei without a booking
As a heavily traveled stop, accommodation can fill up in high season.
Underestimating the stage's length
At nearly 25 km with notable elevation gain in the first half, it's worth starting with plenty of time.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometers from Portomarín to Palas de Rei?
Is this stage difficult?
What is the Castromaior hillfort?
Where does the name Palas de Rei come from?
What happened at Ventas de Narón?
Browse the stages
Things to do in Santiago de Compostela
Walking tour of the old town
Small-group walking tour of Santiago’s old town with a local guide.
Cathedral and Pórtico da Gloria
Guided visit to the Cathedral with access to the museum and the restored Pórtico da Gloria.
Queimada show and tasting
The traditional Galician flambéed drink, explained in a show designed for pilgrims.
Fisterra, Muxía and the Costa da Morte
The three unmissable stops of the "end of the world" in a full-day trip from Santiago.
Our top recommendation
Bonsai Café
You still have stages ahead, but once you reach Santiago you will have earned a good breakfast. Bonsai Café is right in the city centre, with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.
Map
- Bonsai Café
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