Palas de Rei to Melide
A short, easy stage through the A Ulloa region, with Pambre Castle as a backdrop, ending in Melide, where the Camino Francés meets the Camino Primitivo and octopus reigns supreme.
Best season: Year-round, ideal for pairing with an early arrival in Melide
Map
- Palas de Rei
- Melide
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Palas de Rei to Melide is 14.8 km along the French Way (Camino Francés). It's stage 30, with 95 m of ascent and 148 m of descent, completed in about 3h 40min. Difficulty: Easy.
A short stage through A Ulloa
The stage begins at the Campo dos Romeiros in Palas de Rei, a traditional pilgrim meeting spot, and crosses the A Ulloa region, the Galician area immortalized by Emilia Pardo Bazán in her novel "Los Pazos de Ulloa."
The terrain is rolling but undemanding, with lush wooded stretches. Near the route you can spot Pambre Castle, one of the few medieval castles in Galicia to survive almost intact through the 15th-century Irmandiño revolts. After crossing from Lugo province into A Coruña, the path passes through O Leboreiro, with its Romanesque church.
The stage ends in Melide, where the Camino Francés meets the Camino Primitivo. Just before arriving, you cross the lovely medieval bridge over the Furelos river. Melide is famous throughout Spain for its pulperías, serving benchmark pulpo a la gallega paired with ribeiro wine.
What the terrain is like, section by section
Terrain
Rolling, with gentle ups and downs, no especially demanding stretches.
Scenery
Lush forests and fields of the A Ulloa region, with Pambre Castle as a backdrop.
Path type
Dirt track and rural path, with the occasional crossing of the main road.
Villages
San Xiao do Camiño, A Ponte Campaña, Casanova and O Leboreiro before Melide.
Water points
Good, thanks to the many villages that dot this short stage.
Shade
Plentiful in the wooded stretches, one of the most pleasant features of this day.
Traffic
Moderate at crossings with the main road, light for the rest of the route.
Key fact
It's one of the shortest stages of the final stretch: take the chance to arrive early in Melide and enjoy the octopus.
Staying in Melide
Melide, as the meeting point with the Camino Primitivo, has a wide range of accommodation. Classified by tier; Booking ratings verified in September 2026.
Albergue de peregrinos de Melide
Run by the Xunta de Galicia, 156 beds in dormitories of 4 to 56, on Rúa San Antonio. Pilgrim credential required; may not accept reservations, as public albergues typically operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Tel. 659 582 931.
Albergue Melide
49 beds on Av. de Lugo 92, with a bar-restaurant and mini-market. Rated 8.6/10 on Booking, with over 620 reviews.
Hotel Carlos 96
A 1-star hotel on Av. de Lugo 119, with breakfast, a restaurant and a garden. Tel. 981 507 633.
Albergue Alfonso II el Casto
Private rooms with a terrace and garden. Rated 7.9/10 on Booking, with over 360 reviews.
Hotel Lux Melide
A 3-star hotel in the centre, with a rooftop terrace. New and spotlessly clean.
URBAN Pensión
Melide's best-rated lodging (#1), with immaculate rooms and exceptional service.
Melide's octopus
Melide is a culinary landmark across Spain thanks to its traditional pulperías, plus several other options for every taste. Details verified in September 2026.
Pulpo a la gallega
Boiled in copper cauldrons, cut with scissors and seasoned with olive oil, paprika and coarse salt; traditionally served with ribeiro wine in clay cups.
Pulpería Ezequiel
On Cantón de San Roque 48, right in the centre of Melide. Tel. 686 583 378.
Pulpería A Garnacha
On Rúa Camiño Vello de Santiago 2, right where the Camino enters Melide. Tel. 981 507 347.
Parrillada Rúa
Grilled meats and fish on Av. Lugo 50. Tel. 981 506 076.
Raxería Ramos
A wide menu of homemade sharing plates on Av. Lugo 44. Tel. 981 507 667.
Mala Vida
On Rúa Galicia 9, with breakfasts, smash burgers and cocktails in a modern setting.
Stops with history on this stage
A castle that survived the revolts
Built in the 14th century by the Ulloa family, it's one of the few Galician castles to withstand the 15th-century Irmandiño revolts, which destroyed most of the region's fortresses.
A singular Romanesque church
Its portal holds a 12th-century carving of the Virgin, linked to a local legend about a Marian apparition.
A lovely medieval bridge
Crosses the Furelos river right before entering Melide, one of the most photographed spots on this stage.
Galicia's octopus capital
Meeting point of the Camino Francés and the Camino Primitivo, and home to some of the most renowned pulperías in Spain.
Save room for lunch at one of the historic pulperías in Melide: one of the most memorable culinary experiences on the whole Camino.
Getting there and back
If you're starting here: Palas de Rei has bus connections with Lugo and Santiago de Compostela.
If you need to get back from Melide: it has good bus connections with Lugo, Santiago and A Coruña.
What to know before this stage
Look out for Pambre Castle
Though it sits a bit off the main route, it's visible from several points along the way.
Arrive early in Melide
Since it's a short stage, you can enjoy a relaxed meal at a pulpería without rushing.
Don't miss O Leboreiro
Its Romanesque church and the village as a whole deserve a stop, even a brief one.
Enjoy the bridge over the Furelos
It's one of the most photogenic stretches of this short but pretty stage.
Don't ruin this stage
Arriving in Melide without an appetite
Use this short stage to arrive hungry and enjoy the octopus at a leisurely pace.
Missing Pambre Castle
It's one of the few medieval Galician castles preserved almost intact: worth looking out for.
Rushing through O Leboreiro
Its Romanesque church is one of the most interesting artistic stops on this part of the Camino.
Underestimating crowds in Melide
As two routes converge here, there can be more pilgrims than usual: book accommodation if traveling in high season.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometers from Palas de Rei to Melide?
Is this stage difficult?
Why is Melide special?
What is Pambre Castle?
What can you see in O Leboreiro?
Browse the stages
Things to do in Santiago de Compostela
Walking tour of the old town
Small-group walking tour of Santiago’s old town with a local guide.
Cathedral and Pórtico da Gloria
Guided visit to the Cathedral with access to the museum and the restored Pórtico da Gloria.
Queimada show and tasting
The traditional Galician flambéed drink, explained in a show designed for pilgrims.
Fisterra, Muxía and the Costa da Morte
The three unmissable stops of the "end of the world" in a full-day trip from Santiago.
Our top recommendation
Bonsai Café
You still have stages ahead, but once you reach Santiago you will have earned a good breakfast. Bonsai Café is right in the city centre, with weekend brunch, Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and the best cocktails to toast your arrival.
Map
- Bonsai Café
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