San Martín del Camino to Astorga
The terrain finally starts to roll after days of flat páramo, with a legendary stop at the medieval bridge in Hospital de Órbigo before arriving in Roman and Gaudí-touched Astorga.
Best season: Year-round; spring and autumn are especially pleasant
Map
- San Martín del Camino
- Astorga
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
Gaps in the source file are preserved; no connections have been added.
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From San Martín del Camino to Astorga is 23.7 km along the French Way (Camino Francés). It's stage 21, with 190 m of ascent and 188 m of descent, completed in about 5h 30min. Difficulty: Easy.
From the plains to rolling ground
The first part of the stage, up to Hospital de Órbigo, repeats the flat pattern of the previous day, crossing open páramo with little shade. Hospital de Órbigo is the day's big stop: its medieval twenty-arch bridge, the Puente del Paso Honroso, hosted a famous jousting tournament in 1434 organized by the knight Suero de Quiñones.
After crossing the bridge, and following endless days of flatland, the path finally starts to roll a little, passing through Villares de Órbigo and Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias, with more scenic variety than in previous stages.
The stage ends in Astorga, the ancient Roman Asturica Augusta, one of the most charming towns on the Camino Francés, with its Gothic cathedral and the surprising Art Nouveau Episcopal Palace designed by Antoni Gaudí.
What the terrain is like, section by section
Terrain
Flat as far as Hospital de Órbigo; then gently rolling on to Astorga.
Scenery
Open páramo at the start, with more vegetation and variety after crossing the Órbigo river.
Path type
Mostly dirt track, with a stretch or two alongside secondary roads.
Villages
Hospital de Órbigo, Villares de Órbigo, Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias and San Justo de la Vega before Astorga.
Water points
Good in the villages along the way, especially in Hospital de Órbigo.
Shade
Scarce on the first stretch, a bit more after Hospital de Órbigo.
Traffic
Moderate, with a road crossing or two near San Justo de la Vega.
Key fact
Don't miss the Puente del Paso Honroso in Hospital de Órbigo: one of the finest medieval bridges on the Camino.
Staying in Astorga
Astorga is one of the most comfortable arrivals on the Camino Francés: the two religious albergues alone add up to 216 beds, and the town ranges from a bunk bed to a hotel with a spa.
Albergue Siervas de María
156 beds, open year-round: one of the largest albergues on the Camino Francés and the cheapest on this stage. No reservations.
Albergue Franciscano
60 beds, 29 January to 25 December. The town's second safety net if the Siervas de María is full.
Sleeping in Hospital de Órbigo
If you'd rather split the stage in two and sleep by the Paso Honroso bridge: the parish albergue Karl Leisner (62 beds across 7 dorms, 15 March to 31 October), plus the private La Encina and Verde.
Albergue San Javier
110 beds right in the old town, 1 April to 31 October. No online booking page: you call or show up.
MyWay Albergue de Peregrinos
13 beds and 5 rooms, with garden, terrace and bar, a 10-minute walk from Gaudí's Palace. Booking 8.9/10 (826 reviews). 1 April to 30 October.
Albergue Só Por Hoje
Only 8 beds and a sun terrace, a 4-minute walk from the Episcopal Palace. Pricier than a typical albergue, but with a small-house feel. Booking 8.8/10 (1,556 reviews). 5 March to 30 November.
Hotel Exe Astur Plaza
Right by the main square and on the Camino route itself, with a restaurant and wine cellar. Booking 8.9/10.
U-Hotel Spa Ciudad de Astorga
An Art Nouveau mansion 100 m from Gaudí's Episcopal Palace, with a Finnish sauna, hot tub, indoor pool and hydrotherapy shower. Booking 9.3/10 (2,323 reviews), the best rating on this stage.
Eurostars Vía de la Plata
In the former Convent of San Francisco, 100 m from the town hall, with a thermal pool, hot tub and Finnish and Turkish saunas. Note: the spa is closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Booking 8.5/10 (2,720 reviews).
Eating well in Astorga
Astorga is the culinary stop on the Camino Francés. Its cocido maragato is served backwards: meat first, then chickpeas, and soup last. Book ahead and come hungry: it's not a dish to rush.
Casa Maragata I and II
The town's two go-to houses, opened in 1992 and 1999. Their cocido includes ten meats: pork shoulder, belly, ear, trotter, snout, lard, veal shank, hen, Astorga-style cured beef, chorizo and stuffed sausage.
Restaurante Las Termas
Opened in 2000 right in the center, known for a well-executed cocido that feels lighter than its size suggests.
La Peseta
The third house local guides always mention for cocido maragato, in the old town.
Chocolate and mantecadas
Astorga had a major chocolate-making tradition; today it keeps a Chocolate Museum and several century-old pastry shops where you can buy mantecadas.
Stops with history on this stage
The Puente del Paso Honroso
A medieval bridge nearly 200 meters long with twenty arches, site in 1434 of the famous jousting tournament held by knight Suero de Quiñones.
Santa María Cathedral
A Gothic church with Renaissance and Baroque additions, built over the foundations of an earlier Romanesque church.
Gaudí's Episcopal Palace
A Neo-Gothic work by architect Antoni Gaudí, built in the late 19th century; today it houses the Museo de los Caminos.
Asturica Augusta
Astorga was once a major Roman city; visitable archaeological remains still lie beneath the old town.
Combine the cathedral and Gaudí's Palace: they stand right next to each other, and the clash of styles is one of the most striking on the whole Camino.
Getting there and back
If you're starting here: San Martín del Camino has bus connections with León, just 24 km away.
If you need to get back from Astorga: it has a train and bus station with good connections to León, Madrid and other cities.
What to know before this stage
Stop at the Puente del Paso Honroso
It's one of the longest and best-preserved medieval bridges on the whole Camino de Santiago.
Try the cocido maragato
It's served in reverse: meat first, then chickpeas, and finally the soup — a unique tradition from the region.
Visit Gaudí's Palace
It's one of the Catalan architect's few works outside Catalonia: don't miss it if you're into architecture.
Bring sun protection
The first half of the stage has little shade, just like the previous days.
Don't ruin this stage
Crossing the Hospital de Órbigo bridge without stopping
It's one of the most historic stops on the whole Camino Francés: it deserves a few minutes of your time.
Skipping the Episcopal Palace
Many pilgrims walk past without knowing Gaudí left one of his works in Astorga.
Eating too late in Astorga
Cocido maragato is a hearty dish, traditionally meant for midday.
Underestimating the terrain change
Though still easy, the rolling ground after Hospital de Órbigo demands a bit more effort than previous days.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometers from San Martín del Camino to Astorga?
Is this stage difficult?
What is the Puente del Paso Honroso?
What is Astorga's Episcopal Palace?
What is cocido maragato?
Browse the stages
Ideas for after you finish the Camino
A café waiting for you in Santiago
You still have many kilometres ahead, but once you finish the Camino in Santiago, Bonsai Café is a great spot for breakfast: right in the city centre, with Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and weekend brunch.
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