Portugalete to Castro Urdiales
A long, demanding stage that reconnects with the sea at La Arena beach and follows clifftops as it crosses from the Basque Country into Cantabria.
Best season: Spring to autumn
Map
- Portugalete
- Castro Urdiales
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Portugalete to Castro Urdiales is 32.1 km along the Camino del Norte. It's stage 9, with 465 m of ascent and 464 m of descent, completed in about 8 h 30 min. Difficulty: Hard.
32.1 km is the editorial distance, the one guidebooks use for planning. The IGN GPX track below the map measures 35 km: it can differ because of route variants, the exact start and end points, and the access paths into villages, which it leaves out. Neither figure is the road distance between the two towns.
Back to the Cantabrian Sea, on the way into Cantabria
The stage starts with a long bidegorri (shared bike/pedestrian path) leading to La Arena beach, where the Camino reconnects with the Cantabrian Sea after several inland days. From there, the route follows particularly scenic clifftop stretches as it transitions from the Basque Country into Cantabria.
At Ontón, pilgrims must choose between the officially recommended, safer variant through Otañes, or a riskier alternative along the shoulder of the N-634 highway, which saves 6.7 km but only reaches as far as Mioño. It's one of the longest and most demanding stages of the Camino del Norte up to this point, ending in Castro Urdiales.
What the terrain is like, kilometre by kilometre
Terrain
Starts with a long bidegorri to La Arena beach, continues along clifftop stretches, and crosses from the Basque Country into Cantabria.
Scenery
Reconnecting with the Cantabrian Sea at La Arena and the scenic cliffs are the stage's great landscape highlights.
Path type
A bidegorri at the start, clifftop trails, and at Ontón the choice between the official variant through Otañes or a road alternative (N-634) to Mioño.
Villages
La Arena, Ontón (the border between the Basque Country and Cantabria), and Otañes or Mioño depending on the chosen variant.
Water points
Available in the villages passed through, though it's worth stocking up well given the stage's length.
Shade
Limited on the cliff and bidegorri stretches, more plentiful on the inland sections.
Traffic
Low on the official variant through Otañes; considerable on the N-634 shoulder alternative, which requires caution.
Key tip
At 32.1 km and around 8 h 30 min, this is one of the longest stages of the Camino del Norte: start early and weigh carefully which variant to take at Ontón.
Accommodation in Castro Urdiales
Castro Urdiales has a small municipal albergue and a newer option with more beds.
Albergue de peregrinos de Castro Urdiales
A 16-bed municipal albergue, exclusively for pilgrims with a credential, very close to the Camino's route. Open from 14:00 to 20:00, no reservations; as a higher-capacity alternative, the Albergue del Camping de Castro (opened in 2025, 44 beds) offers a pool and restaurant.
Refuelling on this stage
Castro Urdiales, with its lively fishing port, offers a wide range of bars and restaurants at the end of a very long stage.
Cantabrian port cuisine
The historic quarter by the harbour concentrates numerous bars and restaurants, ideal for refuelling.
Historic stops on this stage
La Arena beach
The point where the Camino reconnects with the Cantabrian Sea after several days away from the coast.
The border between the Basque Country and Cantabria
Here you must decide between the official, safer variant through Otañes, or the road alternative to Mioño.
Church of Santa María and the castle-lighthouse
The monumental complex overlooking Castro Urdiales' fishing port, one of the prettiest along the Cantabrian coast.
The clifftop stretch between La Arena and Ontón, with the Cantabrian Sea as a backdrop, is one of the most photogenic sections of this part of the route.
Getting there and back
If you're starting here: Portugalete has a direct metro and commuter train connection to Bilbao.
If you need to head back from Castro Urdiales: there's a bus connection to Bilbao and Santander.
What to know before this stage
Start early
At 32.1 km and around 8 h 30 min, this is one of the longest stages of the whole Camino del Norte.
Decide calmly at Ontón
The official variant through Otañes is safer; the N-634 alternative saves distance but requires caution around traffic.
Carry enough water and food
Given how long this stage is, it's best to set off well stocked.
Check bed availability at the municipal albergue
It only has 16 beds and takes no reservations; the Albergue del Camping is a good backup if it's full.
Don't ruin this stage
Leaving Portugalete late
With more than 32 km ahead, it's best to make the most of daylight from early on.
Taking the N-634 variant without weighing the risk
It saves distance, but means walking along the shoulder of a road with traffic.
Not stocking up enough
It's one of the longest stages of the route: carrying plenty of water and food is essential.
Relying only on the municipal albergue
With only 16 beds and no reservations, it's worth keeping the Camping de Castro alternative in mind.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you're wondering before this stage
How many kilometres from Portugalete to Castro Urdiales?
What are the options at Ontón?
Where does the Camino reconnect with the Cantabrian Sea?
Where can I sleep in Castro Urdiales?
Is this stage difficult?
What can you see in Castro Urdiales?
Browse the stages
Ideas for after you finish the Camino
A café waiting for you in Santiago
You still have many kilometres ahead, but once you finish the Camino in Santiago, Bonsai Café is a great spot for breakfast: right in the city centre, with Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and weekend brunch.
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