Pola de Allande to La Mesa
Considered the queen stage of the entire Camino Primitivo: the Puerto del Palo, at 1,146 meters, is the highest point of the whole route.
Best season: Spring and autumn; in winter the Puerto del Palo can close due to snow, worth checking conditions before setting out
Map
- Pola de Allande
- La Mesa
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
Gaps in the source file are preserved; no connections have been added.
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Pola de Allande to La Mesa is 21.9 km along the Camino Primitivo. It's stage 5, with 900 m of ascent and 750 m of descent, completed in about 7 h. Difficulty: Hard.
The queen stage of the Camino Primitivo
Right after leaving Pola de Allande, the path descends toward the Nisón river valley, leaving behind the villages of El Teixu and El Colobreu beneath holly and strawberry trees, and crossing the Fonfaraón stream over a bridge on the way to La Reigada.
From there begins the day's big challenge: the climb up the Puerto del Palo, with over 600 meters of elevation gain from La Reigada, especially tough in its final stretch. At 1,146 meters of altitude, reached around km 8.8, it's the highest point of the entire Camino Primitivo.
Most of the route runs along dirt and gravel tracks, with less than three kilometers of asphalt in the whole stage. It's no coincidence that this day is considered, by consensus among pilgrims, the queen stage of the entire Camino Primitivo: it demands the most physical effort of the whole route.
What the terrain is like, section by section
Terrain
Initial descent to the Nisón valley, followed by a climb of over 600 m up to the Puerto del Palo (1,146 m).
Landscape
Wooded valleys with holly and strawberry trees, and high-mountain views from the Puerto del Palo.
Path type
Dirt and gravel tracks for nearly the entire route, with less than 3 km of asphalt.
Villages
El Teixu, El Colobreu, and La Reigada before tackling the climb up the Puerto del Palo.
Water points
Available in the initial villages; scarce in the mountain stretch.
Shade
Good in the wooded valleys, scarce in the upper stretch of the pass.
Traffic
Very low, typical of mountain tracks.
Key fact
The Puerto del Palo is the highest point of the entire Camino Primitivo (1,146 m): it can close due to snow in winter, worth checking before setting out.
Staying in La Mesa
La Mesa has two options open year-round, both verified in 2026.
La Mesa Pilgrim Hostel
16 beds, open year-round.
Albergue Miguelín
Private, opened in 2017, at the entrance of La Mesa. 28 beds: 20 in bunk beds plus 8 in private double rooms. Open year-round.
Eating in La Mesa
Food options are limited, tied to the village's own accommodations.
Village bar-restaurant
A simple menu after one of the toughest stages of the entire Camino Primitivo.
Historic stops on this stage
Puerto del Palo (1,146 m)
The highest point of the entire Camino Primitivo, with spectacular views over the Asturian mountains after a very demanding climb.
Holly and strawberry-tree forests
The stage's initial stretch, before the big climb, crosses a natural setting of great value.
Pace your effort well before the climb up the Puerto del Palo: it's the physically most demanding stage of the entire Camino Primitivo, so it's worth arriving at La Reigada with plenty of energy in reserve.
How to get there and back
If you're starting here: Pola de Allande has bus connections to Cangas del Narcea and Oviedo.
If you need to return from La Mesa: the hamlet has no transport of its own; the most practical option is to continue the next stage to Grandas de Salime, which does have bus connections.
What you should know before this stage
Check the Puerto del Palo's conditions in winter
It can close due to snow; check before leaving Pola de Allande.
Fill up on water in the initial villages
Water points become scarce once the climb up the pass begins.
Set out with rested legs
It's the stage with the most elevation gain of the entire Camino Primitivo: not the best day to carry accumulated fatigue.
Don't ruin this stage
Underestimating the Puerto del Palo
It's the highest point of the entire Camino Primitivo: don't tackle it without a good night's rest beforehand.
Setting out without checking the winter weather
Snow can close the pass; verify conditions before departing.
Not carrying enough water
The mountain stretch has few supply points.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you want to know before this stage
How many kilometers are there from Pola de Allande to La Mesa?
Why is it considered the queen stage of the Camino Primitivo?
Can the Puerto del Palo close?
Is there accommodation open year-round in La Mesa?
Is it the hardest stage of the entire Camino Primitivo?
Browse the stages
Ideas for after you finish the Camino
A café waiting for you in Santiago
You still have many kilometres ahead, but once you finish the Camino in Santiago, Bonsai Café is a great spot for breakfast: right in the city centre, with Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and weekend brunch.
Transparency: this page contains affiliate links. If you book or buy through one of them, Guía del Camino de Santiago may receive a commission. Read our affiliate policy