Laredo to Güemes
A short boat crossing to Santoña, three long Cantabrian beaches, and the arrival in Güemes, home to the legendary Padre Ernesto albergue.
Best season: Year-round
Map
- Laredo
- Güemes
FEAACS track published by IGN. Follow current trail signs.
Source: IGN/CNIG · FEAACS · CC BY 4.0 · Accessed:
Gaps in the source file are preserved; no connections have been added.
Does not include access from the track to: Güemes.
The Camino Bonsai Café team · Last editorial update:
From Laredo to Güemes is 28.7 km along the Camino del Norte. It's stage 11, with 305 m of ascent and 245 m of descent, completed in about 7 h 15 min. Difficulty: Moderate.
28.7 km is the editorial distance, the one guidebooks use for planning. The IGN GPX track below the map measures 32.5 km: it can differ because of route variants, the exact start and end points, and the access paths into villages, which it leaves out. Neither figure is the road distance between the two towns.
From beach to beach, to the legendary albergue of Güemes
The stage starts with a short boat crossing between Puntal de Laredo and Santoña. From there, the Camino runs along three long beaches: Salvé in Laredo, Berria after Santoña, and Helgueras-Trengadín in Noja, before turning inland towards Güemes.
An inland variant via Colindres exists, about 4.1 km longer, used when the boat service doesn't run during the winter months. The stage ends in Güemes, famous for its pilgrim albergue run by Father Ernesto Bustio, a true landmark of hospitality on the whole Camino del Norte.
What the terrain is like, kilometre by kilometre
Terrain
Starts with a boat crossing, continues along three long beaches, and ends with an inland stretch into Güemes.
Scenery
Salvé beach, Berria beach and Helgueras-Trengadín beach follow one another before heading into inland Cantabria.
Path type
Beach sand, seafront promenades and, on the final stretch, inland rural paths into Güemes.
Villages
Santoña, Noja and Colindres (on the inland variant) are the stage's main towns.
Water points
Plentiful in Santoña and Noja, both towns with a good range of services.
Shade
Limited on the beach stretches, somewhat better on the final inland section.
Traffic
Generally low, except in the urban stretches of Santoña and Noja.
Key tip
Check the boat schedule from Laredo to Santoña before setting off; it may not run in winter, requiring the Colindres variant.
Accommodation in Güemes
Güemes is home to one of the most iconic accommodations on the entire Camino del Norte.
Albergue La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto
Run by Father Ernesto Bustio and a team of volunteers, with about 100 beds across 5 rooms and 8 cabins. The donation covers dinner, accommodation and breakfast. It has a large library and operates year-round entirely on pilgrim contributions.
Refuelling on this stage
Santoña and Noja offer a good range of bars and restaurants; in Güemes, dinner is included in the albergue's donation.
Anchovies and preserves
Santoña is Spain's anchovy capital: a must-stop for lovers of quality preserved fish.
Historic stops on this stage
Boat crossing to Santoña
A short, picturesque boat trip between Puntal de Laredo and Santoña, one of the most unique moments of the Camino del Norte.
Three Cantabrian beaches
Salvé, Berria and Helgueras-Trengadín follow one after another along the stage, among the prettiest on the whole Cantabrian coast.
Father Ernesto's albergue
A true landmark of Camino hospitality, with over 100 beds and a philosophy built entirely on donation.
The experience at the Güemes albergue, with its communal dinner and the atmosphere created by Father Ernesto, is one of the most fondly remembered moments among those who walk the Camino del Norte.
Getting there and back
If you're starting here: Laredo has a direct bus connection to Santander and Bilbao.
If you need to head back from Güemes: there's a bus connection to Santander, a short distance away.
What to know before this stage
Check the boat schedule
The crossing between Laredo and Santoña doesn't always run in winter; check before setting off to avoid losing time.
Take your time on the three beaches
Salvé, Berria and Helgueras-Trengadín are among the prettiest on the Camino del Norte: no need to rush across them.
Experience the Güemes albergue
The communal dinner and Father Ernesto's atmosphere are an essential part of this stage: arrive with time to enjoy it.
Carry cash for the donation
The Güemes albergue's system runs entirely on voluntary pilgrim contributions.
Don't ruin this stage
Not checking on the boat service
If it's not running and you didn't know, you'll have to improvise the Colindres variant, 4.1 km longer.
Rushing through the beaches
They're among the prettiest of the whole route: worth enjoying without picking up the pace.
Arriving late at Güemes
The communal dinner and the albergue's atmosphere are part of the experience: it's best not to arrive at the last minute.
Not carrying cash
The Güemes albergue's donation is the basis of how it operates; it's worth carrying some cash.
What to pack, travel insurance and getting around
One single guide with the recommended gear, useful services (insurance, eSIM) and transport options for the whole Camino.
Work out how much it will cost you
Set the days, route and type of trip, and we give you an estimate of the total cost with a full breakdown.
Everything you're wondering before this stage
How many kilometres from Laredo to Güemes?
How do you cross from Laredo to Santoña?
What beaches does this stage pass?
What is the Güemes albergue?
Is this stage difficult?
Do you need to book the Güemes albergue?
Browse the stages
Ideas for after you finish the Camino
A café waiting for you in Santiago
You still have many kilometres ahead, but once you finish the Camino in Santiago, Bonsai Café is a great spot for breakfast: right in the city centre, with Berraco by Bou specialty coffee and weekend brunch.
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